Understanding Skin Purging vs Breakouts

What purging is

Some active ingredients, mainly retinoids and exfoliating acids, speed up how fast your skin renews itself. Congestion that was already forming under the surface comes up sooner than it would have, so you see more small spots for a while. That is purging. It is temporary, and the skin usually looks clearer once it passes.

What a breakout is

A breakout happens when a product clogs pores or irritates your skin. It is a sign the product does not suit you, and it will not improve if you keep using it.

How to tell the difference

• The product. Purging comes from products that increase cell turnover. If the new product is a moisturiser, cleanser, make-up or sunscreen, a breakout is more likely.
• Where the spots are. Purging tends to appear where you usually get spots. Spots in new places point to a breakout.
• How long it lasts. Purging usually settles within a few weeks. Spots that keep coming after four to six weeks suggest the product is not right for you.
• How it feels. Burning, stinging, itching or a rash are signs of irritation or a reaction, not purging. Stop the product.

What to do while your skin adjusts

• Introduce one active product at a time, and start slowly, for example two or three evenings a week.
• Keep the rest of your routine simple: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and daily sunscreen.
• Do not squeeze or pick, which can leave marks.
• Avoid adding scrubs or more acids during this time.

When to get advice

Stop the product and get advice if your skin is painful, swollen or itchy, if spots are deep or cystic, or if nothing improves after six weeks. A doctor can help with persistent or severe acne. For congestion while your skin settles, a professional deep cleanse such as Dermalogica Pro Clear or the QMS Deep Pore Cleansing Facial can help; tell your therapist which actives you are using.